St Jean Pied de Port

St Jean Pied de Port

The Route

The Route

Monday, May 24, 2010

ITALY here we come and conclusion 1 for the Camino

Ok so this is short but sweet we are on our way to Italy tomorrow. 2 days earlier than the flights we booked. Long story but we accidentally booked the wrong dates for our flight to Italy. We booked it one day later than planned and two days later than we should have. Seeing as we left Santiago without travelling to Finisterre we should have booked our trip to Italy for the 25th but instead in a sick blunder booked it for the 27th....After a long winded attempt the travel agent we booked with, they fixed the mistake for us as we were unable to do so ourselves.

I can not wait. Kimberley is in the room now doing some last minute research for the first part of the trip through Naples.

I have so much to say about the Camino but shall wait until later. For now I say this.... it was an amazing trip and a very difficult one at the same time. Had many ups and many downs but in the end it was something I would never take back. I am so glad we did it and even happier we were able to do it together. Even with the sickness, feet trouble, bad luck and tourists at the end it was worth every minute. I suggest it to all of those who wish to do it.

I can say without a doubt, I would at this point however, not repeat it. I did not get the same bug that others get in the desire to do it over and over. For me it was and will always be a once in a life time experience. I hope to write a more detailed blog later explaining what the Camino was for us.

Those of you whom are planning to go do not wait.. go now because you do not know if tomorrow will ever come. My mother had a stroke on April 17th the day we set foot over the Pyrenees, the first day of our adventure almost was an end in my mothers.

It really played a part in the thoughts and dreams I had over the weeks as we walked the Camino. She is doing much better from the reports I get from home. The thought of losing someone when you are so far from home really makes you think... even when that loved one is someone you have been distanced from for sometime. That though is another tale for another day.

On that note I pack up and set forth on our next journey. Italy a place I have longed to travel to since I was young. I am overjoyed and am leaving Spain on a high note... Until tomorrow!

Ciao
Viviana

Saturday, May 22, 2010

it is not the destination but the journey

We are still alive....barely. Currently we are in Barcelona. It has been a very dramatic finish to our past few weeks of travel along the Camino. We are still reflecting a lot on what we have accomplished and well trying to keep food in and moving forward. Viviana managed to get ill the first night we arrived in Santiago. I was still not doing so well. We were lucky enough to have met an Italian doctor who went with Viviana to get me meds, little did she know we would go back to get her some as well. Our arrival was not met with trumpets a sounding or Angels singing. No one came running up saying "wow you made it!". Instead we arrived into what I would have to describe is a "Vegas for Catholics". It was so touristy but instead of scantly clad women with rhinstones, we had rosaries, crosses, and everything imaginable to do with the church, the camino, witches (still trying to figure that one out...?). We were disappointed falls a little short of how I would describe the feeling. I would rather focus on what was positive...seeing our various travel mates, giving them a hug and the look that "we made it, we did it", usually followed by lots of tears of joy and knowledge that we have accomplished what we set out to do and each of us with our different reasons, shared one common goal for 33-36 days. The kindness and support of complete strangers, for no other reason than to be there for someone else in some shape or form. I wish I knew what it will feel like to be home again to the same old same old after all of this. Will all that love and kindness be lost forever? For 33 days we felt what it was like to share the basics of life with others with no expectations other than to walk together, perhaps share a meal, coffee, laugh, whatever.

There is more to tell but time is limited at the moment. Just wanted to let you know we are here and well, enough. We leave for Italy as it stands now on May 27. Looking forward to that part of the trip and hopefully we can eat by then.

Ciao,
K

Monday, May 17, 2010

2 days to Santiago

So we are two days away from Santiago and last night Kimberley has come down with a case of the well let´s just say she can´t keep things down or in. We ate a salad especial and it seems to be a bit more special than we both would like. I haven´t had the same reaction just yet and am hoping not to. Today we walked even though I thought we should have her rest. However the only way I agreed to the walk was J gad ti ket ne take some moer weight to make it eaiser on her as she has no energy.

We did cut the day short as planned we had thought of doing this anyway. So we are in Boente instead of the destination set for day 31.

We are still schedualed to be in Santiago on the 19th. We want to be there when our ¨family¨gets to Santiago.

Ok so now on to the last 100k. It is horrible. The scenery is wonderful but the ¨tourist¨ pilgirms that have joined in are awful. They wake up and make tons of noise, rush by you in droves, they have little or no packs and are taking in zero of the Camino in our minds. They have no idea what we are going through and honestly we don´t care how happy they are to start their walks. Sorry to be blunt but it is true. We have nothing in common with the ¨new pilgirms¨. It is a sad but true reality currently.

We luckily ran into two Canadians again whom we had lost and Ninka whom we started out with in SJPdP... it was wonderful to see them again. Like seeing long lost family members. Ok so this is quick as the time is ticking quick and I need to go tend to my sick bear but we wanted you all to get a little feel of what we are seeing in the last 100k.

We will update again soon.... as for those of you behind... Heather... we miss you and were sad not to see you at the last 100k part but glad you are keeping your Camino going!...

Two days to go and we will be done... it is hard to imagine it is almost over!

wish us luck

Friday, May 14, 2010

not yet swept away..almost

Terribly sorry for the delay but we have been fighting the floods and freezing our butts off, therefore no internet. We are on Day 28, which means we have 4 days left. We have seen two days of snow...that is right i said snow!!!!! not happy bunnies to say the least with that one. Viviana was cursing me for a bit but her reward is coming soon enough.

Our bodies are slowing down these days. it takes everything to get up in the cold mornings. It has been wet for days now. Putting your sore feet into soaking wet boots is one of the worst feelings ever. Add below 0 temperattures and the squeals can be heard about the Albergues.

I will attempt to relay a bit about our days for the past bit. Besides having moments of yelling out to whoever will listen when we curse the weather, we have spent more time than i care to reveal on the reproductive life of snails...yes snails. Given the weather, wet, we see lots, and lots of snails and slugs. Big black thick slugs. When i am not saving the snails from a terrible death, apparently the formation of their shells, how they reproduce has filled way too many hours. Once realized what we were doing we stopped it immediately, since it is just strange. Although i will google it when i get home since the damage is done. I have bonded with the snails, they are like family since i seem to move at the same pace as them as the day wares on.

Another past time seems to be the curing of our smelly clothes. Given the wet weather we are unable to wash our clothes, since once wet they need to be hung dry. Most of our clothes is dry fit so they cannot go in the drier. Thus the curing effect. I kinda see it like a fine wine, better with age, but can be rather strong. Like a nice wine or olives our clothes are basically taking on a Meditarrean existance.

Not quite sure how many nights back....i was forced to leave the room because this sub-human snorer drove me to near madness with sounds unrecognizeable. I ventured out to "no go zones" to find a bed. I freezing but no noise till the morning. We avoid this fellow like the plague. If we see him going to an Albergue we go to another one. It is doggy, dog and we need our rest more than anything else. Or the conversations might get even weirder than snail sex. I know that is difficult to imagine.

It has been ages now and we have grown to dislike the cyclists we see every day. It came to a head the other day when I was limping along a single narrow pathway through the bushes roughly 5 feet from the road side, which had a huge shoulder, only to be forced off the path by these rocket like cyclists! I lost it. I went off on a huge torent about how this a "camino", which means "walk", not a speed way etc. etc. They were long gone and I was just letting off steam because I had had it. I still do not get why people insist on cycling this as a "sporting" path. It is so much more than that and there are so many other places they can cycle...so why on a spiritual pilgrimage? I just had to let it out....sorry.

We are not the only ones struggling. We have an Italian woman we have met from the beginning and she was suffering with stomach trouble for the past few days. She had a wee melt down. We tried to comfort her and gave her stuff to help her out. We talked to her and tried to be there. She has walked with us and has asked us to contact her when we are in Rome. Her stomach is better, looks like what we gave helped. She was so afraid she would not make it to Santiago and she is so close. It is hard to explain what drives us and even more when we see each other in pain, and yet we push through it and keep putting one foot in front of the other.

Coming into Astorga, famous for chocolate, I was not doing so well. Once in we went out to get some food. We were passed by this young woman in a wheel chair, as we went by her she said hello, as many people here do since they know we are on the camino, if nothing else, I felt blessed I had pain because that meant I could walk on my own....enough said.

As we get closer to the arrival day we wonder what it will be like...? How will it feel, will we see others who we saw along the way? We have decided to not walk the whole way to Finistere. We want to enjoy the rest of the time be able to take in the Ocean etc. Santiago is the goal, Finistere was an add on. We both feel this is the best for us. We will walk the coast going into Finistere. There are plenty of hikes around that area that we can take in at our leisure, if our feet allow us.

Ciao, ciao,
K

Saturday, May 8, 2010

Climbing a mountain tomorrow

Well this will be short as it is way past this girls bedtime. We are off to climb a mountain tomorrow reaching the highest peak to date. We will be leaving as early as we can since we are heading to bed late. Last night was a nightmare we shared a room with 2 men who snored really loud. To put it into perspective they sounded like a car that has lost it´s muffler and backfires every once in a while. What a nightmare. To add to that it was freezing in the arbegue.

Anyway I have managed to get a pretty bad rash on the backs of my knees so at the end of the day I hobble along with Kimberley. I can´t complain though since Kimberley is in constant pain at the end of a twenty five to twenty seven km day and never once complains.

We are having enjoying the coffees though 3 today! I am in coffee heaven though I can´t wait to get to Italy to enjoy an espresso in a piazza with no backpack to lug.

We are 11 days tomorrow from Santiago... keep praying for us!

More from Kimberley tomorrow... that is if the mountain does not get the best of us lol.

looking forward to uploading some pics for you all and really getting blogging down!

v

Friday, May 7, 2010

Throwing the gible out the window

so yesterday kimberley was told she should rest. of course that is not an option so we have decided to take the gible we have been following and alter it to suite us without adding any days or busses.

what we are doing is taking the grey route where possible, which turns out is in part the actual way of st. james, and shorting one day and adding to another to even out the km's. it will mean we are not staying in the exact towns it mentions but hey what can you do.

today we are in Villadangos del Paramo which is off the grey route. we decided to take the grey route when we noticed it would shorten tomorrow by 5km. so instead of 30 we are going to be doing 25 or 27 can't recall.

It was an overall good day.. the route wasn't much to look at but it isn't always about the scenery here. It is more about the destination. Heather if you are reading this then try to stay in the municipal albergue in the gible in Mansilla de las Mulas and tell Laura the Canadians say hi...actually tell her Barbara 2 says HI and her friend as well :0) if she doesn't remember us like that tell her we are the ones she told to throw away our boots and put a maxi pad in our shoe instead of the orthotic. long story but will reveal later.

Tomorrow we are off to Astorga the last big town before the crazy climb. It has been a pretty amazing journey so far and I feel as though I really have changed in more ways than one.

We are contimplating not walking to Finistere now as it will shorten our time in Italy and we don't really want that to happen so we are keeping our options open. We may end up taking a bus from Santiago to the coast line and then walking just the coastal section another Canadian suggested it. This way I can also see Barcelona and spend a good amount of time there.

Anyway more soon from Kimberley I am off to do the shopping!

2 days until we part with our stones :0) yeah our bags will be lighter hee hee

Wednesday, May 5, 2010

Which way...?

I have realized that we really have not given you an idea of how our days go. Although one day seems to blend with the other there is a wee process to our little world right now. So the day in the life of Kimberley and Viviana, Pilgrims on a mission, not sure what mission but it just sounds good. Viviana sets her watch for 6am which annoys the rest of the people since no one seems to get up as early. Why do we get up so early...? Because it takes us so darn long to get to A to B. We have the largest bags and everyone who passes us tells us just how big they are...talk about telling us the obvious but it seems to make them happy. It gets kinda annoying to hear it every day in and out...ah well. Once up we attempt to eat a wee bit, hopefully there is a cafe open to get a coffee. If there is no cafe, we panic and try to see how far to the next town for a coffee. Coffee is our bestest friend these days. It keeps the engine going as it were and well frankly is the only thing that gets my butt going. Never in all my days have I consumed as much coffee as I have on this particular trip. We actually plan our days on pace etc. to when we can get another cup. We are supporting the Spanish economy all on our own with just coffee.

We are up before the sun is up....currently that means it is freezing outside. As the sun rises we are reminded that life keeps moving even though we are barely aware of it at that point. As we drag our butts we try to keep moving with a pace which can only be compared to our traveling partners....the snails. We barely pass them but when we do we are usually trying to save them from the other pilgrims from stepping on them....we wonder why it takes us so long to get anywhere. If we are not saving hundreds of snails we are feeding stray cats along the route. We actually carry food for them....thus the big bags...okay not just because of that but it sounds better.

As the day goes we manage to amuse each other either by complaining about the weather, the trail-how uneven it is, since it kills my various injuries and basically makes both of us tired mentally trying to watch ever step so we do not fall all over the place. Let's face it, we have time on our hands here. To be fair our bitching does not last long and we just get down to busy which is walking. Today I had a thought about technology....here goes....we have managed to make it so we have more time, yet we still manage to do so little or fill it with nothing. It takes us roughly a day to walk 20km or so, so let's say it takes us 4 days to walk 100km, it would be a one hour bus ride to travel that same distance. So now we fill our time with what? We have eliminated the time to get to places yet, we never seem to have time for friends, family, whatever...how is that? This is what fills our days. We come up with lots of questions, sometimes we have answers but overall it is just more questions that we come up.

If the weather is good we sing. We forget most of the words and recall the chorus only. We go through lots of songs as you can imagine. We might be looking up some words so we can do an entire song just once.

After we make it to our 3rd coffee we are almost finished our day. Along the way we have the same people who were at the Albergue and slept in till 9am or so and then they pass us like nothing after a few hours. Then they manage to get all the beds. We are usually rushing to get at least one lower bunk since I cannot get my arse up one with my bad feet etc. I would pity the soul below me since I pee all night long.

Viviana usually rushes ahead tries to get us a lower bunk. Then we get our beds, stamp on our wee booklet to prove we are doing the camino and pay. Once in the bed we doctor our feet for roughly an hour. We fix what we can, then others have a look and see what they can do or just give you a look like, wow sure glad that is not my feet....then we have a good laugh since that is the camino.

Viviana usually has the energy and better feet etc. so she either seeks out food at a market or we decide to get ourselves to a pilgrim menu. Then off to bed at roughly 8:30 or so. Party down for us!!! Stop me now! Then we do it all over again, give or take meds for pain, and coffee amounts vary. We scooby snack along the path as well.

Enough said....

Ciao Kimberley

ps- we are getting exceptionally cold weather here they say...oh lucky us!

Day 19 and counting

Hey all,

we have reached our halfway mark and are happy to announce the weather has changed to blistering cold and SNOW. Well ok we haven't yet seen the snow just yet but we hear it has hit a few cities we shall be entering soon. It is now colder here than in Canada.

Today started out very rough however once we shortened it by taking the alternate route after hitting the cafe it turned out to be much more pleasant. Just to note the cafe came after we hit the 16km mark. The road was not the old Roman road which is quite nice in pictures but is hell to walk on.

Kimberley's foot is causing her crazy pain but each day she gets up and walks. Some would say we were crazy others would say we are determined but whatever it is we keep trucking.

Tomorrow we hit Leon which should be wonderful we are off tomorrow for a short 19kms which will be lovely. The albergue we are at today is wonderful they gave Kimberley a foot masage and the daughter is a vet so she took a look at poor kimberley´s foot.

Tomorrow should be a better day we enter into Leon hopefully at a decent hour and hopefully will have enough time to suss out a phone card to call home.

We are also hoping that in leon we can find some neat little shop that sells insoles as i had to take the orthodics out of my shoe due to the swelling. it has been crazy.

this is a quick post i have´t yet uploaded any of my others and will do so shortly. for now this is just a quick hey...

T.H. I know it is odd but i decided to cary a rock with me for you. it is supposed to signify your burdens and once I get to the spot we are to leave it I will leave all my burdens behind. after speaking to you just before i left i felt a strong urge to bring a rock here for you. my intention was to place the rock and then photograph it showing the picture for you to see. however with the unperdictableness of the interent and our abilty to find it i have instead decided to post the tale for you to read. i hope it helps you... i have one rock for you and one for myself. i hope once i place the rock for you something magical happens as it does on the camino.

Marg i want you to do this... and do it soon. so many people here and so many tales you should get on the road. it is a magically difficult journey and really once you read all about it i hope you take the time you deserve and get onto the trail.

anyway all more soon from Kimberley if I can coax her out of bed that is.

cheers,
viviana

Saturday, May 1, 2010

Still truckin

We are still alive...barely! It has been a crazy last couple of days. It seems we are always moving which I guess we are actually but the days seem to meld into one after awhile. Yesterday we had a relatively easy day at 21km so we broke out into song since there was nothing around for the whole walk, expect for other pilgrims. They did not seem to mind our spontaneous craziness...besides most of them do not speak English. Oh yes, we are on day 15, I believe....

Any doctors out there? I think I have managed to pinch a nerve in my foot....I cannot feel my big toe on the top and I have a rather painful bump on the bone....it could be worse..oh right I managed to get a cold as well....my luck continues to shine. Meanwhile Viviana is a shining star while I slowly fall to pieces, she is there to scrape me off the floor....whether she really wants to or not.

The Meseta which we are on now is quite flat overall and lovely, though some people find it boring. I am loving the flat part!!! It is a well needed break from the up and down. The weather has been rather good but we got a good down pour while going up a rather steep hill, not completely flat all the time...that would be asking for too much.

I am now adding to the music symphany during the night since breathing is at a minimum, it is funny to listen to the musical butts and snorts. I burst out laughing and there is no one listening to me which suits me just fine.

Ciao for now K!

Safe trip to Carmina and Kris, we tried to get to an internet yesterday but no luck, sorry.

Viviana has asked for me to pass on a message

Marg... if you are reading this you have to do it... take at least 40 days.. i will explain later

T.H. Viviana has been carrying a rock for you and will place it with ours on the day we leave all burdens behind on the Camino... again more explaining later...

Sunday, April 25, 2010

Da Feet

We had a rather easy day today with a mere 23km. Not like yesterday and the day before, 30km and 29km. I had a wee melt down yesterday....not intended but strange how it came about really. I was just around the corner from the Albergue and I saw this Italian chap who is kind and we see him every day, came to me since I looked like poop, and before you know it I burst into tears. I was so exhausted and the pain from the blisters, the heel pain and then an added knee injury...well it put me over the edge. I cannot explain why, other than he reminded me of my father, who passed away years ago. He came to me later, touch my cheek and I started again. What can I say....even though he knows absolutely no English and my Italian is very little at best, I understood what he was converying. This is what the camino is all about. We are all in a certain amount of pain. It is varying degrees, but legitimate and sincere. The compassion I felt from the others was touching and hard to imagine still exists in this world at times. I had a young American chap come to me with some blister stuff that he brought from the US. He swore by them since he was a competitive soccer player and they use them all the time. I offered money and he refused it. The day before was tough as well and a lovely French man gave me some of his supplies and helped me as well. Viviana had a German fellow who helped her. This chap walked around in his underwear sorting out his "privates" in full view. Normally this might be a bit of deterant, yet he has shared his medical and later some food....appearances can be deceiving at best and I have learned that sometimes people can be surprising.

Our feet are our tools now. We almost show off our war wounds to some extend. The empathy is great. The old saying misery loves company is true here but with a more positive spin....we share it with love and affection here not with malice.

The amazing thing is that I do not know any of these peoples names. Not that I do not care so much as it really does not seem to matter to anyone. We are in the moment and formalities are unimportant.

The other day on one of the rough treks, I saw this polish fellow, we know where everyone is from just not the names, funny really, any ways, he took a rather big short cut. I now tease him about it. I made a wee joke between Viviana and I that he will have to come back and do the camino on his hands and knees...backwards!!! We try to stay true to the path, but try to avoid walking on pavement since it kills the feet after awhile, the littlest things mean so much.

Viviana´s new name is "pack mule". She has taken upon herself to care more weight till my feet are sorted out. She rocks my world! She is so supportive and never seems to stop. I feel blessed to have her with me and even more so on this journey. Not because she is being exceptionally kind but because we have a good laugh, and I could not imagine a better person to be with.

I believe today is day 8....to be honest they meld together. We never know what day, day it is, I know it is Sunday, only because all the shops are closed so we are having to do without fresh bread...almost criminal!

Sometimes I look ahead to see what the next day will be like. We have a wee map book that gives distance (essential!) and the terrain (crucial!). It is nice to have a mental preparations, other times, I prefer to just wing it. No clue about tomorrow, I guess it is a wingin' day.

Ciao, ciao,
Kimberley

Saturday, April 24, 2010

Day 8 ouch my feet hurt

Hey all,

today we walked for 10 hours and our feet are killing us. Yesterday we were in so much pain it was hard to walk to dinner let a lone attempt to walk to the internet room to blog. We are having a great time when we can feel our feet that is. Today we walked through vineyards and wonderful natural pathways. Unfortunatly the wonderful pathways were paved over by the government for the pilgrims to have an easier path to walk on. Little do they know the paved paths cause tremendous pain to those of us whom are walking 10 hours straight. The time is running out so I will sign off by saying the minute we can find an internet cafe I shall upload the blogs that detail our walks and share in our experience more. stay tunned fellow travelers I shall return shortly.

Ciao!

Thursday, April 22, 2010

Hoppy and Gimpy

Hello all,

sorry it has been a bit we have been traversing mountains and crossing oceans...okay perhaps not oceans but today was a wet one for sure. our first rain day, ugh! lucky it was rather flat and really level path, not our usual situation generally speaking. we have been battling the "feet" issue. both Viviana and i are suffering a wee bit. we gave in and posted what we were carrying for our Italy portion of the trip along to Santiago. it took everything to let go of that tent but after yesterday, our backs, feet were beyond recognizeable. i even went to the red cross where they provide free care for pilgrims. after much entertaining the nurses over my display of oragamy with band aids and duck tape, truly a special thing to behold apparently, they were in totally histarics (sp?). we posted forward 6 kg which is what some people are just carrying to give you an idea of what we were foolishly doing to our bodies. today was a light one for sure. the difference is significant and we are grateful to have the burden taken away.

now that i have managed to entertain the local medical community i feel that it can only improve. i have to say our nightly encounters with the symphany of noses is beyond anything human. the albergues are mixed gender which means, men with the inability to breath properly through their noses...what up with that? if i shove the ear plugs any further in i just might hit something fleshy!

the term "fuzzy balls" has a special place in my heart now after laying on a lower bunk. i am seeing and experiencing more than i would truly like but all apart of the fun, right...?

on a very positive side we are meeting amazing people who inspire us to see and do so much more. every imagineable nationality is here. the mixture of languages all being spoken at once since no one knows each others language 100%, is just crazy and wonderful all at once. we see the same group we started off with in France. we check in since everyone has some issue or other. the feet ritual is a given. every pilgrim has to take extra care of their feet and each has their own way of dealing with the pain, or whatever is going on. to be united by our feet is bizarre, yet makes complete and utter sense since it is what we are all here for...the journey via our feet....

hopefully the sun will shine tomorrow as we wander on our way.

Adios,
k

Tuesday, April 20, 2010

St Jean Pied de Port

Day 3 St Jean Pied du Port

As we drove into St. Jean Pied de Port the scenery was breathtaking. We spent most of the ride getting to know Heather the woman we met online at a Santiago forum. As we pulled into the town and jumped off the bus it hit me. What the hell were we doing? Tomorrow we were going to embark on a journey of 28km with packs that already weighed a ton. Looking around at the other pilgrims I then began to compare rucksacks. Was mine too full, did I carry to much, could I possibly dump something out, and of course the all important were we completely nuts to sign up for a journey like this? A resounding Yes, Yes but too late, if you had to and no you both are not nuts, well not completely. We pulled our packs on and hiked towards the pilgrim’s office to sign in. Some say it is just in case you go missing, others say it is to keep a tab of all of those who finish the journey or at least where they leave off.

The hike up was steep through narrow cobble stone streets. We collected our passports, gave our names, addresses and next of kin (kidding) and listened to them as they said “your packs are way to full”. Well hello Mr. Obvious! Our next stop was to drop off our oversized bags at the albergue and get acquainted with our new home for the day. Then it was time to explore the beautiful town of St. Jean Pied du Port.

SJPdP is absolutely wonderful. It is a walled town surrounded by mountains. Wherever you turn you can see cobble stone streets, stone and wood work and a wonderful *church*.

We all decided to enter the church to light a candle for the journey that was to come. This was the first time I have entered a church in 15 years let alone knelt and said a prayer.

After out tour, 2 cafés we headed home to enjoy the Pilgrim meal served at our albergue. It was fantastic. We all had to tell a little bit about ourselves, where we were from and why we were doing this. The meal was great, we had some wine and local cider and then headed off to bed.

Tomorrow we climb a mountain!

Monday, April 19, 2010

survival of the fitest

Hey all we made...sorry we have been trying to get on but mucho problemas! we are on our 3rd day of the camino.....it hurts to think let alone walk for 13 hours straight. our first day was a killer, we made it in at 13 hours 2 minutes just getting over the mountains into Spain, just as it was getting dark...scary stuff. we barely had time to fart let alone get into bed before the lights were out.

The next day took us 11 hours or so to get to Larrasoana. The views everything were lovely. so much to say and so little time since the internet is counting down as i write this....sorry.

The third day we are now in Cizur Menor, only 6.5 hours. why you might ask..? no mountains and rather flat compared to the first day but still lots of ups and downs....that will never end i fear, and we got up before the darn rooster started...craziness!

My little feet have seen better days...losing a toenail...might have a funeral for it...not sure, seems sad though since it has been with me for awhile, ah well.

We will write later but the time is ticking on the coin we had to put in...no wifi to use here unfortunately.

Please send positive vibes for my feet since they seem rather angry at me right now.

Adios,
Kimberley

Saturday, April 17, 2010

Day 1 SJPdP- Roncesvalles

Total Km's 31.7 (with elevation correction) time 13hrs 2 mins

Today I found God on the Camino as we left the Mountain. It may seem like an odd way to start at the end but it was at the end of the final leg of this day that we really needed a helping hand. Ok so let's go over what our day was like. We awoke at 6:30 to get an early start but after breakfast we ended up leaving at 8ish. As we took off down the cobble stone streets toward the start of our 36 day Journey we were hit right away with an climb that challanged our will. The three of us laughed over the way we struggled up the street that led to the begining of the Mountain. After all if we were all dragging it now can you imagine when we actually begin the ascend?

Right away it was clear the three of us had very different challanges, Kimberley's was the descends, mine was keeping my Asthma in check and Heathers was her ascends. The scenery up the mountain was absolutly wonderful. We saw many different towns and villages but more importantly pilgrims of many nations. A Spanish lady whom we dubbed Monkey lady due to her stuffed monkey on her pack told us in Italian that she was doing her second Camino, a group of elderly Germans who sped up the Mountain (tiny backpacks!) and many many more. We knew that throughout these next 36 days some of the people we started off with would make the Journey and others would not. It was easy to see whom would stay the night in Orisson and who would trudge on to Roncesvalles.

As we ascended making good time we decided to keep going to help with the time we would lose on the descend, though at this point we had lost Heather to a hill back before we hit Orisson. Thinking she may have stayed the night we kept on trekking. Kimberley's foot was in extream pain at one point but she did not complain, instead we took in the scenery that surrounded us. We had a picnic on top of the mountain trying to give our American friend time to catch up. When she did not show we continued on.

Finally as we hit the final ascend before hitting the ascend to the summit we spotted her from a distance and waited for Heather to re-join our group. It is hard to put into words the beauty we saw that day so hopefully the pictures that are going to follow soon will do it justice.

As we continued on our way and the hours continued to mount we came across an emergency hut. We entered the hut as Kimberley went off to releave herself and explored our possible home. It was equiped with all the emergency gear you could ask for so we started thinking. How great would it be to wake up in the Mountain?Delerium began to set in, we were so ehausted from the climb we just wanted to stop, sleep and recharge. Heather and I believed that as in Surviver her and I could start a fire to keep us warm by banging together rocks or sticks... after all she was a girl guide. When we brought the idea to Kimberley she looked at us like we were nuts told us to gather our gear and we forged on.

3 hrs later and many many painful steps we still were not off the Mountain. At this point Kimberley had had enough and wanted to lay down and sleep in the open. As the sun set and dark should have come I prayed for the second time on this trek. This time it was for light because the final hr of the trek was through forrest and only one of us had a torch handy. The night before the sun set and it got dark just after 8pm, I was worried this was going to turn into another episode of Mount Washington vs Kimberley and Viviana. We pushed her to move quicker, Heather and I were worried for different reasons, I was worried Kimberley would pass out from the pain and Heather was worried we would be stuck in the dark. We ended up arriving in Roncesvalles at 9:15pm... 45 minutes before the Arbegue closed for the night. As we entered the Arbegue the light outside slowly left the night sky and it became pitch black dark outside the glass doors.

Call it what you will but I call it a miricle so that is why I say today I found God on the Camino.

Friday, April 16, 2010

The train system from Hell!!!!

Day 1 Toronto - Paris

Ok so my advice for the day is…. Unless you know for certain that you are able to actually sleep on a plane, do not attempt to pre set your internal clock to Paris time. If you count the 1 hour we both dozed off for in the plane then technically we slept. We want to sleep believe me, but the body has said are you kidding me? So now as we sit on the train headed for Bayonne we both pass out…. Good right? No not really when the entire intention of taking this train was to actually see the southern country side. Oh well live and learn.

Alright so let’s go back to the landing. We landed making great time, cleared customs and picked up our luggage. Both of us looking around wondering when we would be stopped for the drill, why are you here, who are you visiting, how long, who is this woman you are traveling with etc. After we clearly were not going to be asked we begun setting out for the train station. Asking a few information booths about the were a bouts of said train station we were directed. As we made our way we began questioning peoples opinion of the train station nightmare in Paris. After all it is now 8:40am and we are clearly going to make the 10:05 direct train to Bayonne. If not that then we of course would be sitting next to Heather getting to know one another on the 10:45.

So we finally reach the train station and as if we were slammed up against a wall come to a dead stop. Where do we go now? The signs are completely in French (yes smart ass we know where we are thanks Gary). So we stand there looking at each other asking one another now what? I don’t know I say to her but we need to find out quick quick. Now it is 9:00 time is clicking away. We stand in the information line which takes 10 minutes to clear, another 10 minutes or so passes. The train is going to leave, and we won’t be on it. I ask directions but fail to ask the all important question of where can we obtain said ticket for the train. Kimberley looks at me as if I should have known that was the follow up question to where is the train, I look at her like how the hell was I supposed to know you wanted more than the first question you asked me to ask and we proceed to run around looking for the dam booth. We stand in one line and are directed by a nice English speaking French man to the machines. Again the next question to the nice English speaking man would have been which ticket in the ticket machine should I purchase of the 4 available. Instead we jump out of that line get into the cue for the ticket machines and find that they only accept coin. COIN do you know how hard it is in Pairs to obtain coin when you don’t know the word for change? Thank God a friend had given us some Euro coin she had and we buy one ticket while I run around for change for the second. Kimberley doesn’t move from the cue which pisses off the French man standing behind but hey C’est le vie. We finally have our ticket whew… clock says 9:45 Ok so not going to make the direct train which is fine we planned on hooking up with Heather. We jump into the train it leaves 1 minute later and takes forever to get to the station where we have to change to a second train. So now we are finally at the Train station now it is 10:20am and once again that wall has found its way into direct path. Again I sit in a cue to ask a question for now 20 minutes while Kimberley runs around and trying to find the ticket booth as she feels this isn’t it. 10:30 Kimberley comes down to inform me the 10:45 is full so we now have to take the 11:40. We contemplate trying to find Heather’s train and saying hey before she leaves but with 5 minutes and our navigational luck we sit tight and wait for information on which platform to head to. We get onto our train it leaves and we both fall fast asleep. It is now 3:05 we will be there in 2hrs and 10 minutes. Hopefully we can find an internet Café when we arrive.

Thanks for the posts on Facebook about the flights. We did not realize that we were lucky enough to make it out of Toronto as all flights after or soon after were cancelled.

Wednesday, April 14, 2010

Minor meltdown

Today started like any other day...got up photocopied like a crazy woman the remainder of my Italy research....oh right, that is not a normal day!!!! Yesterday I tried to renew the Italy book from the library to find that I could not do it...panic! I still had so much more to research, photocopy, I needed another day...shit! I even went to the library to see what the penalty would be for a late book...30 cents...no biggy, so why the panic? I have never, ever had a late charge for anything my entire life. Yep, one of those people. I thought it represented poor time management, and in this case lack of consideration for the poor soul waiting on this book somewhere else. That person could very well be me, on any given day. Thus the irrational freak out, last night and this morning. I stayed up as late as I could manage....eyes blurring trying to get it all done and with the possible thought that I could hand the book in through the night slot (sad but true). In the end I conceded to take the 30 cent hit and have a virtual check on my library record. I have moved from the thoughtful considerate people to a self-centered slob in less than a day...how quickly we can fall.

My mate at lunch pointed out that perhaps the degree at which I was feeling guilty about the book was more to do about leaving the cats....interesting thought...yep, I have no doubt that I feel lots of guilt leaving them. Once again I concede that the level at which I was reacting definitely combined with the stress of leaving my "babies" got the better of me. I feel awful leaving them. Almost irresponsible to some extent. I know they are in great hands but it is not my hands. I realize I have to let go...and I know it will happen but for now I suffer and give them unending cuddles which they love to some extent, they are starting to look at me like a crazed lunatic, which seems to be my where I am at right now (aka previous posts).

Beyond the pseudo parenting of my cats, traveling on a whole makes me think about my longevity. To put it simply, I usually think I am going to die, or rather the possibility that we can crash on a plane, train, or bus is always there. I realize this makes me sound rather negative but I like to view it more like I do not want to take the ones I care for, for granted or what I have. I have calmed down from my younger years, but I still have the odd moments of telling people I love them and crying etc. Travel allows me to appreciate what I have. I do realize that is a bit sad having that as a reminder but I am only human and sometimes I forget to "smell the roses". I suppose that is one of the many reasons I love to travel, so I stop and "smell the roses", well in my case "the bakery", whatever works, right.

Ciao for now,
Kimberley

Tuesday, April 13, 2010

The Packing List

Clothes

3 pairs of Underwear (2 packed 1 worn)
3 pairs of Socks (2 Packed 1 worn)
2 short sleeve t-shirts
2 long sleeve t-shirts (1 packed 1 worn)
2 Pairs of pants which turn into shorts (1 packed 1 worn)
1 dress bra (for Italy)
1 sports bra (worn)
Gortex Jacket
Fleece
Rain pants
Rain Poncho
Crocks
Gortex Hiking boots (worn)
Hat
Sunglasses

Ok so that sums up our clothes thus the title Crusty and Crustier :0)

As for the remainder of our weight it is made up of Homeopathic meds, vitamins, tent, sleeping bags, sleeping pads, fleece blanket, hiking poles, journals, braces *just in case* and little things. The packs so far weigh roughly 25 pounds each.. We have tried to lower the weight but neither of us are willing to give up the tent or the vitamins again, just in case!

Sunday, April 11, 2010

Itinerary- first 40ish days

Hiya all, Since we may or may not reach an internet cafe each day, here is a rough itinerary of the first leg of our trip.

April 14-Toronto to Paris

April 15-Arrive in Paris and take a train straight to Bayonne

April 15-16 Bayonne

April 16-Train to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (literally meaning "Saint John at the foot of the mountain pass"

April 16-17 Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port 165m above sea level....Where it all begins!

884.3 Km Total trek
Day 1: April 17- Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles/Orrega 24.8 or 31.7km depending on the path chosen. Roncesvalles sits 960 m above sea level however you climb 1450m to the summit and then descend to Roncesvalles over the Pyrenees.

859.5 km to go
Day 2: April 18- Roncesvalles to Larrasonaña 27.7 km 500m above sea level

831.8 km to go
Day 3: April 19- Larrasonaña to Cizur Menor 21.2 Km 480m above sea level

810.6 km to go
Day 4: April 20- Cizur Menor to Puente La Reina 19.6 km 350m above sea level

791 km to go
Day 5: April 21- Puente La Reina to Estella 21.1 km 426m above sea level

769.9 km to go
Day 6: April 22- Estella to Los Arcos 21.7 km 450m above sea level

748.2 km to go
Day 7: April 23- Los Arcos to Logroño 27.8 km 380m above sea level

720.4 km to go
Day 8: April 24- Logroño to Nájera 29.4km 490m above sea level

691 km to go
Day 9: April 25- Nájera to Santo Dominigo 21.0 km 640m above sea level

670 km to go
Day 10: April 26- Santo Dominigo to Belorado 23.9 km 770m above sea level

646.1 km to go
Day 11: April 27- Belorado to St. Juan de Ortega 24.1 km 950m above sea level

622 km to go
Day 12: April 28- St. Juan de Ortega to Burgos 25.6 km 860m above sea level

596.4 km to go
Day 13: April 29- Burgos to Hornillos 20.5 km 820 above sea level

575.9 km to go
Day 14: April 30- Hornillos to Castrojeriz 21.2 km 810m above sea level

554.7 km to go
Day 15: May 1- Castrojeriz to Frómista 25.5 km 790m above sea level

529.2 km to go
Day 16: May 2- Frómista to Carrión 20.1 km 840m above sea level

509.1 km to go
Day 17: May 3- Carrión to Terradillos 26.8 km 885m above sea level

482.3 km to go
Day 18: May 4 Terradillos to Hermanillas 26.9 km 820 above sea level

455.4 km to go
Day 19: May 5 Hermanillas to Mansilla 24.5 km 800m above sea level

430.9 km to go
Day 20: May 6 Mansilla to León 18.6 km 840m above sea level

412.3 km to go
Day 21: May 7 León to Mazarife 23.1 km 880m above sea level

389.2 km to go
Day 22: May 8 Mazarife to Astroga 30. km 900m above sea level

359.1 km to go
Day 23: May 9 Astroga to Rabanal 21.4 km 1,160m above sea level

337.7 km to go
Day 24: May 10 Rabanal to Molinaseca 26.5 km 610m above sea level

311.2 km to go
Day 25: May 11 Molinaseca to Villafranca 30.7 km 530m above sea level

280.5 km to go
Day 26: May 12 Villafranca to O'cebreiro 30.9 km 1330m above sea level

249.6 km to go
Day 27: May 13 O'cebreiro to Triacastela 20.7 km 675m above sea level

228.9 km to go
Day 28: May 14 Triacastela to Sarria 25.0 km 455m above sea level

203.9 km to go
Day 29: May 15 Sarria to Portomarín 22.9 km 420m above sea level

181 km to go
Day 30: May 16 Portomarín to Palas de Rei 26.1 km 575m above sea level

154.9 km to go
Day 31: May 17 Pala de Rei to Ribadiso/Arzúa 26.4 km 390m above sea level

128.5 km to go
Day 32: May 18 Ribadiso/Arzúa to Arca do Pino 22.2 km 290m above sea level

106.3 km to go
Day 33: May 19 Arca do Pino to Santiago 20.6 km 260m above sea level

85.7 km to go
Day 34: May 20 Santiago to Negreira 22.4 km 180m above sea level

63.3 km to go
Day 35: May 21 Negreira to Olveiroa 33.1 km 280m above sea level

30.2 km to go
Day 36: May 22 Olveiroa to Finisterre 29.2 km at sea level OH YEAH!!!

As you can see from the calculations 1 km is missing. I have double checked the books calculations and am unsure where the extra km is supposed to be. Ah well what can you do either we will be walking an extra km or have one km to play with. After the trek there is an additional 3.5 km to get to the lighthouse that you have to see if you go to Finisterre so... we continue to walk on!

From here we will head to Barcelona and spend 2-3 days there before we fly to Italy.

Wednesday, April 7, 2010

How it all started....not the world, our Camino Trip

G'day;

I realized going over the blogs that we negated how this whole trip originated. After a year end of funerals we decided that life was too short and we needed to "live for today". We also got it in our minds to challenge ourselves physically....what better than to do a marathon. We reduced it to a half marathon since we felt we needed to be reasonable. Now the marathon came from watching on and off again the "biggest loser". No real explanation about why we watch that show, other than we love to eat, relate to weight issues, and feel rather small compared to the individuals on the show. After watching an episode where they do a marathon, I thought, we can do that if they can! And so it began. Viviana now limits my tv. watching since apparently I cannot watch a thing without getting some crazy idea and inevitably dragging her along. She is so agreeable. From there I thought would it not be cool to do it in another place to have something to look forward to and have no witnesses(that knew us!) to our craziness. I began research on 1/2 marathons around the world. Wow! Who knew there were so darn many people out there who like to torture themselves. We needed it to be at a reasonable time of year, somewhere we both wanted to go and perhaps not too expensive. I found one in Italy (although, it is expensive there) on the mediterranean. If all fails we stop for a cappuccino, and call it a day. Then we thought what if we get injured and cannot enjoy the rest of the trip....thus marathon trashed.

I proceeded to go to my handy dandy "travel ideas" folder. I had read about the "Camino de Santiago" a few years ago and put it in my "to do one day list", along with roughly 50 other things, and counting. We began the research on the Camino. Once we saw it was a holy year. We took it as a sign. I posed the question, "where would you like to go if you were to die tomorrow?". She answered, Italy. How exactly could we afford Italy? The research for the Camino, revealed camping and hostals as a viable cheap option. The other issue was time....how long and when? We both knew that there were some big changes coming in the future, career changes, school...? The time was now. Viviana had never really taken an extended trip before, and we were not sure when we would get the opportunity to do it for sometime. Viola, a trip was formed. We fine tuned it, dates, weather, crowds, and flight cost. The other major sign, a low interest line of credit!!! What more could we ask for....before we knew it, the flight was booked and the research went into full throttle. It has been a blur ever since. Camino first, Italy (a wee reward) afterwards.

I realize now if we really sat and thought about this we would have talked ourselves down. But we maintained the motivation....tomorrow might never come and we felt that out weighed the pending debt. Now, ask me how we feel when we get home and the bills start to pile up....for now we are in subtle bliss of hope and faith, that what is meant to be will be. Cue, Doris Day song...for those too young, google it!

What is the moral of the story....never let me watch tv. or before you know it I have you going to hell knows where, doing hell knows what!

Ciao, ciao,
Kimberley