Total Km's 31.7 (with elevation correction) time 13hrs 2 mins
Today I found God on the Camino as we left the Mountain. It may seem like an odd way to start at the end but it was at the end of the final leg of this day that we really needed a helping hand. Ok so let's go over what our day was like. We awoke at 6:30 to get an early start but after breakfast we ended up leaving at 8ish. As we took off down the cobble stone streets toward the start of our 36 day Journey we were hit right away with an climb that challanged our will. The three of us laughed over the way we struggled up the street that led to the begining of the Mountain. After all if we were all dragging it now can you imagine when we actually begin the ascend?
Right away it was clear the three of us had very different challanges, Kimberley's was the descends, mine was keeping my Asthma in check and Heathers was her ascends. The scenery up the mountain was absolutly wonderful. We saw many different towns and villages but more importantly pilgrims of many nations. A Spanish lady whom we dubbed Monkey lady due to her stuffed monkey on her pack told us in Italian that she was doing her second Camino, a group of elderly Germans who sped up the Mountain (tiny backpacks!) and many many more. We knew that throughout these next 36 days some of the people we started off with would make the Journey and others would not. It was easy to see whom would stay the night in Orisson and who would trudge on to Roncesvalles.
As we ascended making good time we decided to keep going to help with the time we would lose on the descend, though at this point we had lost Heather to a hill back before we hit Orisson. Thinking she may have stayed the night we kept on trekking. Kimberley's foot was in extream pain at one point but she did not complain, instead we took in the scenery that surrounded us. We had a picnic on top of the mountain trying to give our American friend time to catch up. When she did not show we continued on.
Finally as we hit the final ascend before hitting the ascend to the summit we spotted her from a distance and waited for Heather to re-join our group. It is hard to put into words the beauty we saw that day so hopefully the pictures that are going to follow soon will do it justice.
As we continued on our way and the hours continued to mount we came across an emergency hut. We entered the hut as Kimberley went off to releave herself and explored our possible home. It was equiped with all the emergency gear you could ask for so we started thinking. How great would it be to wake up in the Mountain?Delerium began to set in, we were so ehausted from the climb we just wanted to stop, sleep and recharge. Heather and I believed that as in Surviver her and I could start a fire to keep us warm by banging together rocks or sticks... after all she was a girl guide. When we brought the idea to Kimberley she looked at us like we were nuts told us to gather our gear and we forged on.
3 hrs later and many many painful steps we still were not off the Mountain. At this point Kimberley had had enough and wanted to lay down and sleep in the open. As the sun set and dark should have come I prayed for the second time on this trek. This time it was for light because the final hr of the trek was through forrest and only one of us had a torch handy. The night before the sun set and it got dark just after 8pm, I was worried this was going to turn into another episode of Mount Washington vs Kimberley and Viviana. We pushed her to move quicker, Heather and I were worried for different reasons, I was worried Kimberley would pass out from the pain and Heather was worried we would be stuck in the dark. We ended up arriving in Roncesvalles at 9:15pm... 45 minutes before the Arbegue closed for the night. As we entered the Arbegue the light outside slowly left the night sky and it became pitch black dark outside the glass doors.
Call it what you will but I call it a miricle so that is why I say today I found God on the Camino.
Saturday, April 17, 2010
Friday, April 16, 2010
The train system from Hell!!!!
Day 1 Toronto - Paris
Ok so my advice for the day is…. Unless you know for certain that you are able to actually sleep on a plane, do not attempt to pre set your internal clock to Paris time. If you count the 1 hour we both dozed off for in the plane then technically we slept. We want to sleep believe me, but the body has said are you kidding me? So now as we sit on the train headed for Bayonne we both pass out…. Good right? No not really when the entire intention of taking this train was to actually see the southern country side. Oh well live and learn.
Alright so let’s go back to the landing. We landed making great time, cleared customs and picked up our luggage. Both of us looking around wondering when we would be stopped for the drill, why are you here, who are you visiting, how long, who is this woman you are traveling with etc. After we clearly were not going to be asked we begun setting out for the train station. Asking a few information booths about the were a bouts of said train station we were directed. As we made our way we began questioning peoples opinion of the train station nightmare in Paris. After all it is now 8:40am and we are clearly going to make the 10:05 direct train to Bayonne. If not that then we of course would be sitting next to Heather getting to know one another on the 10:45.
So we finally reach the train station and as if we were slammed up against a wall come to a dead stop. Where do we go now? The signs are completely in French (yes smart ass we know where we are thanks Gary). So we stand there looking at each other asking one another now what? I don’t know I say to her but we need to find out quick quick. Now it is 9:00 time is clicking away. We stand in the information line which takes 10 minutes to clear, another 10 minutes or so passes. The train is going to leave, and we won’t be on it. I ask directions but fail to ask the all important question of where can we obtain said ticket for the train. Kimberley looks at me as if I should have known that was the follow up question to where is the train, I look at her like how the hell was I supposed to know you wanted more than the first question you asked me to ask and we proceed to run around looking for the dam booth. We stand in one line and are directed by a nice English speaking French man to the machines. Again the next question to the nice English speaking man would have been which ticket in the ticket machine should I purchase of the 4 available. Instead we jump out of that line get into the cue for the ticket machines and find that they only accept coin. COIN do you know how hard it is in Pairs to obtain coin when you don’t know the word for change? Thank God a friend had given us some Euro coin she had and we buy one ticket while I run around for change for the second. Kimberley doesn’t move from the cue which pisses off the French man standing behind but hey C’est le vie. We finally have our ticket whew… clock says 9:45 Ok so not going to make the direct train which is fine we planned on hooking up with Heather. We jump into the train it leaves 1 minute later and takes forever to get to the station where we have to change to a second train. So now we are finally at the Train station now it is 10:20am and once again that wall has found its way into direct path. Again I sit in a cue to ask a question for now 20 minutes while Kimberley runs around and trying to find the ticket booth as she feels this isn’t it. 10:30 Kimberley comes down to inform me the 10:45 is full so we now have to take the 11:40. We contemplate trying to find Heather’s train and saying hey before she leaves but with 5 minutes and our navigational luck we sit tight and wait for information on which platform to head to. We get onto our train it leaves and we both fall fast asleep. It is now 3:05 we will be there in 2hrs and 10 minutes. Hopefully we can find an internet Café when we arrive.
Thanks for the posts on Facebook about the flights. We did not realize that we were lucky enough to make it out of Toronto as all flights after or soon after were cancelled.
Ok so my advice for the day is…. Unless you know for certain that you are able to actually sleep on a plane, do not attempt to pre set your internal clock to Paris time. If you count the 1 hour we both dozed off for in the plane then technically we slept. We want to sleep believe me, but the body has said are you kidding me? So now as we sit on the train headed for Bayonne we both pass out…. Good right? No not really when the entire intention of taking this train was to actually see the southern country side. Oh well live and learn.
Alright so let’s go back to the landing. We landed making great time, cleared customs and picked up our luggage. Both of us looking around wondering when we would be stopped for the drill, why are you here, who are you visiting, how long, who is this woman you are traveling with etc. After we clearly were not going to be asked we begun setting out for the train station. Asking a few information booths about the were a bouts of said train station we were directed. As we made our way we began questioning peoples opinion of the train station nightmare in Paris. After all it is now 8:40am and we are clearly going to make the 10:05 direct train to Bayonne. If not that then we of course would be sitting next to Heather getting to know one another on the 10:45.
So we finally reach the train station and as if we were slammed up against a wall come to a dead stop. Where do we go now? The signs are completely in French (yes smart ass we know where we are thanks Gary). So we stand there looking at each other asking one another now what? I don’t know I say to her but we need to find out quick quick. Now it is 9:00 time is clicking away. We stand in the information line which takes 10 minutes to clear, another 10 minutes or so passes. The train is going to leave, and we won’t be on it. I ask directions but fail to ask the all important question of where can we obtain said ticket for the train. Kimberley looks at me as if I should have known that was the follow up question to where is the train, I look at her like how the hell was I supposed to know you wanted more than the first question you asked me to ask and we proceed to run around looking for the dam booth. We stand in one line and are directed by a nice English speaking French man to the machines. Again the next question to the nice English speaking man would have been which ticket in the ticket machine should I purchase of the 4 available. Instead we jump out of that line get into the cue for the ticket machines and find that they only accept coin. COIN do you know how hard it is in Pairs to obtain coin when you don’t know the word for change? Thank God a friend had given us some Euro coin she had and we buy one ticket while I run around for change for the second. Kimberley doesn’t move from the cue which pisses off the French man standing behind but hey C’est le vie. We finally have our ticket whew… clock says 9:45 Ok so not going to make the direct train which is fine we planned on hooking up with Heather. We jump into the train it leaves 1 minute later and takes forever to get to the station where we have to change to a second train. So now we are finally at the Train station now it is 10:20am and once again that wall has found its way into direct path. Again I sit in a cue to ask a question for now 20 minutes while Kimberley runs around and trying to find the ticket booth as she feels this isn’t it. 10:30 Kimberley comes down to inform me the 10:45 is full so we now have to take the 11:40. We contemplate trying to find Heather’s train and saying hey before she leaves but with 5 minutes and our navigational luck we sit tight and wait for information on which platform to head to. We get onto our train it leaves and we both fall fast asleep. It is now 3:05 we will be there in 2hrs and 10 minutes. Hopefully we can find an internet Café when we arrive.
Thanks for the posts on Facebook about the flights. We did not realize that we were lucky enough to make it out of Toronto as all flights after or soon after were cancelled.
Wednesday, April 14, 2010
Minor meltdown
Today started like any other day...got up photocopied like a crazy woman the remainder of my Italy research....oh right, that is not a normal day!!!! Yesterday I tried to renew the Italy book from the library to find that I could not do it...panic! I still had so much more to research, photocopy, I needed another day...shit! I even went to the library to see what the penalty would be for a late book...30 cents...no biggy, so why the panic? I have never, ever had a late charge for anything my entire life. Yep, one of those people. I thought it represented poor time management, and in this case lack of consideration for the poor soul waiting on this book somewhere else. That person could very well be me, on any given day. Thus the irrational freak out, last night and this morning. I stayed up as late as I could manage....eyes blurring trying to get it all done and with the possible thought that I could hand the book in through the night slot (sad but true). In the end I conceded to take the 30 cent hit and have a virtual check on my library record. I have moved from the thoughtful considerate people to a self-centered slob in less than a day...how quickly we can fall.
My mate at lunch pointed out that perhaps the degree at which I was feeling guilty about the book was more to do about leaving the cats....interesting thought...yep, I have no doubt that I feel lots of guilt leaving them. Once again I concede that the level at which I was reacting definitely combined with the stress of leaving my "babies" got the better of me. I feel awful leaving them. Almost irresponsible to some extent. I know they are in great hands but it is not my hands. I realize I have to let go...and I know it will happen but for now I suffer and give them unending cuddles which they love to some extent, they are starting to look at me like a crazed lunatic, which seems to be my where I am at right now (aka previous posts).
Beyond the pseudo parenting of my cats, traveling on a whole makes me think about my longevity. To put it simply, I usually think I am going to die, or rather the possibility that we can crash on a plane, train, or bus is always there. I realize this makes me sound rather negative but I like to view it more like I do not want to take the ones I care for, for granted or what I have. I have calmed down from my younger years, but I still have the odd moments of telling people I love them and crying etc. Travel allows me to appreciate what I have. I do realize that is a bit sad having that as a reminder but I am only human and sometimes I forget to "smell the roses". I suppose that is one of the many reasons I love to travel, so I stop and "smell the roses", well in my case "the bakery", whatever works, right.
Ciao for now,
Kimberley
My mate at lunch pointed out that perhaps the degree at which I was feeling guilty about the book was more to do about leaving the cats....interesting thought...yep, I have no doubt that I feel lots of guilt leaving them. Once again I concede that the level at which I was reacting definitely combined with the stress of leaving my "babies" got the better of me. I feel awful leaving them. Almost irresponsible to some extent. I know they are in great hands but it is not my hands. I realize I have to let go...and I know it will happen but for now I suffer and give them unending cuddles which they love to some extent, they are starting to look at me like a crazed lunatic, which seems to be my where I am at right now (aka previous posts).
Beyond the pseudo parenting of my cats, traveling on a whole makes me think about my longevity. To put it simply, I usually think I am going to die, or rather the possibility that we can crash on a plane, train, or bus is always there. I realize this makes me sound rather negative but I like to view it more like I do not want to take the ones I care for, for granted or what I have. I have calmed down from my younger years, but I still have the odd moments of telling people I love them and crying etc. Travel allows me to appreciate what I have. I do realize that is a bit sad having that as a reminder but I am only human and sometimes I forget to "smell the roses". I suppose that is one of the many reasons I love to travel, so I stop and "smell the roses", well in my case "the bakery", whatever works, right.
Ciao for now,
Kimberley
Tuesday, April 13, 2010
The Packing List
Clothes
3 pairs of Underwear (2 packed 1 worn)
3 pairs of Socks (2 Packed 1 worn)
2 short sleeve t-shirts
2 long sleeve t-shirts (1 packed 1 worn)
2 Pairs of pants which turn into shorts (1 packed 1 worn)
1 dress bra (for Italy)
1 sports bra (worn)
Gortex Jacket
Fleece
Rain pants
Rain Poncho
Crocks
Gortex Hiking boots (worn)
Hat
Sunglasses
Ok so that sums up our clothes thus the title Crusty and Crustier :0)
As for the remainder of our weight it is made up of Homeopathic meds, vitamins, tent, sleeping bags, sleeping pads, fleece blanket, hiking poles, journals, braces *just in case* and little things. The packs so far weigh roughly 25 pounds each.. We have tried to lower the weight but neither of us are willing to give up the tent or the vitamins again, just in case!
3 pairs of Underwear (2 packed 1 worn)
3 pairs of Socks (2 Packed 1 worn)
2 short sleeve t-shirts
2 long sleeve t-shirts (1 packed 1 worn)
2 Pairs of pants which turn into shorts (1 packed 1 worn)
1 dress bra (for Italy)
1 sports bra (worn)
Gortex Jacket
Fleece
Rain pants
Rain Poncho
Crocks
Gortex Hiking boots (worn)
Hat
Sunglasses
Ok so that sums up our clothes thus the title Crusty and Crustier :0)
As for the remainder of our weight it is made up of Homeopathic meds, vitamins, tent, sleeping bags, sleeping pads, fleece blanket, hiking poles, journals, braces *just in case* and little things. The packs so far weigh roughly 25 pounds each.. We have tried to lower the weight but neither of us are willing to give up the tent or the vitamins again, just in case!
Sunday, April 11, 2010
Itinerary- first 40ish days
Hiya all, Since we may or may not reach an internet cafe each day, here is a rough itinerary of the first leg of our trip.
April 14-Toronto to Paris
April 15-Arrive in Paris and take a train straight to Bayonne
April 15-16 Bayonne
April 16-Train to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (literally meaning "Saint John at the foot of the mountain pass"
April 16-17 Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port 165m above sea level....Where it all begins!
884.3 Km Total trek
Day 1: April 17- Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles/Orrega 24.8 or 31.7km depending on the path chosen. Roncesvalles sits 960 m above sea level however you climb 1450m to the summit and then descend to Roncesvalles over the Pyrenees.
859.5 km to go
Day 2: April 18- Roncesvalles to Larrasonaña 27.7 km 500m above sea level
831.8 km to go
Day 3: April 19- Larrasonaña to Cizur Menor 21.2 Km 480m above sea level
810.6 km to go
Day 4: April 20- Cizur Menor to Puente La Reina 19.6 km 350m above sea level
791 km to go
Day 5: April 21- Puente La Reina to Estella 21.1 km 426m above sea level
769.9 km to go
Day 6: April 22- Estella to Los Arcos 21.7 km 450m above sea level
748.2 km to go
Day 7: April 23- Los Arcos to Logroño 27.8 km 380m above sea level
720.4 km to go
Day 8: April 24- Logroño to Nájera 29.4km 490m above sea level
691 km to go
Day 9: April 25- Nájera to Santo Dominigo 21.0 km 640m above sea level
670 km to go
Day 10: April 26- Santo Dominigo to Belorado 23.9 km 770m above sea level
646.1 km to go
Day 11: April 27- Belorado to St. Juan de Ortega 24.1 km 950m above sea level
622 km to go
Day 12: April 28- St. Juan de Ortega to Burgos 25.6 km 860m above sea level
596.4 km to go
Day 13: April 29- Burgos to Hornillos 20.5 km 820 above sea level
575.9 km to go
Day 14: April 30- Hornillos to Castrojeriz 21.2 km 810m above sea level
554.7 km to go
Day 15: May 1- Castrojeriz to Frómista 25.5 km 790m above sea level
529.2 km to go
Day 16: May 2- Frómista to Carrión 20.1 km 840m above sea level
509.1 km to go
Day 17: May 3- Carrión to Terradillos 26.8 km 885m above sea level
482.3 km to go
Day 18: May 4 Terradillos to Hermanillas 26.9 km 820 above sea level
455.4 km to go
Day 19: May 5 Hermanillas to Mansilla 24.5 km 800m above sea level
430.9 km to go
Day 20: May 6 Mansilla to León 18.6 km 840m above sea level
412.3 km to go
Day 21: May 7 León to Mazarife 23.1 km 880m above sea level
389.2 km to go
Day 22: May 8 Mazarife to Astroga 30. km 900m above sea level
359.1 km to go
Day 23: May 9 Astroga to Rabanal 21.4 km 1,160m above sea level
337.7 km to go
Day 24: May 10 Rabanal to Molinaseca 26.5 km 610m above sea level
311.2 km to go
Day 25: May 11 Molinaseca to Villafranca 30.7 km 530m above sea level
280.5 km to go
Day 26: May 12 Villafranca to O'cebreiro 30.9 km 1330m above sea level
249.6 km to go
Day 27: May 13 O'cebreiro to Triacastela 20.7 km 675m above sea level
228.9 km to go
Day 28: May 14 Triacastela to Sarria 25.0 km 455m above sea level
203.9 km to go
Day 29: May 15 Sarria to Portomarín 22.9 km 420m above sea level
181 km to go
Day 30: May 16 Portomarín to Palas de Rei 26.1 km 575m above sea level
154.9 km to go
Day 31: May 17 Pala de Rei to Ribadiso/Arzúa 26.4 km 390m above sea level
128.5 km to go
Day 32: May 18 Ribadiso/Arzúa to Arca do Pino 22.2 km 290m above sea level
106.3 km to go
Day 33: May 19 Arca do Pino to Santiago 20.6 km 260m above sea level
85.7 km to go
Day 34: May 20 Santiago to Negreira 22.4 km 180m above sea level
63.3 km to go
Day 35: May 21 Negreira to Olveiroa 33.1 km 280m above sea level
30.2 km to go
Day 36: May 22 Olveiroa to Finisterre 29.2 km at sea level OH YEAH!!!
As you can see from the calculations 1 km is missing. I have double checked the books calculations and am unsure where the extra km is supposed to be. Ah well what can you do either we will be walking an extra km or have one km to play with. After the trek there is an additional 3.5 km to get to the lighthouse that you have to see if you go to Finisterre so... we continue to walk on!
From here we will head to Barcelona and spend 2-3 days there before we fly to Italy.
April 14-Toronto to Paris
April 15-Arrive in Paris and take a train straight to Bayonne
April 15-16 Bayonne
April 16-Train to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (literally meaning "Saint John at the foot of the mountain pass"
April 16-17 Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port 165m above sea level....Where it all begins!
884.3 Km Total trek
Day 1: April 17- Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles/Orrega 24.8 or 31.7km depending on the path chosen. Roncesvalles sits 960 m above sea level however you climb 1450m to the summit and then descend to Roncesvalles over the Pyrenees.
859.5 km to go
Day 2: April 18- Roncesvalles to Larrasonaña 27.7 km 500m above sea level
831.8 km to go
Day 3: April 19- Larrasonaña to Cizur Menor 21.2 Km 480m above sea level
810.6 km to go
Day 4: April 20- Cizur Menor to Puente La Reina 19.6 km 350m above sea level
791 km to go
Day 5: April 21- Puente La Reina to Estella 21.1 km 426m above sea level
769.9 km to go
Day 6: April 22- Estella to Los Arcos 21.7 km 450m above sea level
748.2 km to go
Day 7: April 23- Los Arcos to Logroño 27.8 km 380m above sea level
720.4 km to go
Day 8: April 24- Logroño to Nájera 29.4km 490m above sea level
691 km to go
Day 9: April 25- Nájera to Santo Dominigo 21.0 km 640m above sea level
670 km to go
Day 10: April 26- Santo Dominigo to Belorado 23.9 km 770m above sea level
646.1 km to go
Day 11: April 27- Belorado to St. Juan de Ortega 24.1 km 950m above sea level
622 km to go
Day 12: April 28- St. Juan de Ortega to Burgos 25.6 km 860m above sea level
596.4 km to go
Day 13: April 29- Burgos to Hornillos 20.5 km 820 above sea level
575.9 km to go
Day 14: April 30- Hornillos to Castrojeriz 21.2 km 810m above sea level
554.7 km to go
Day 15: May 1- Castrojeriz to Frómista 25.5 km 790m above sea level
529.2 km to go
Day 16: May 2- Frómista to Carrión 20.1 km 840m above sea level
509.1 km to go
Day 17: May 3- Carrión to Terradillos 26.8 km 885m above sea level
482.3 km to go
Day 18: May 4 Terradillos to Hermanillas 26.9 km 820 above sea level
455.4 km to go
Day 19: May 5 Hermanillas to Mansilla 24.5 km 800m above sea level
430.9 km to go
Day 20: May 6 Mansilla to León 18.6 km 840m above sea level
412.3 km to go
Day 21: May 7 León to Mazarife 23.1 km 880m above sea level
389.2 km to go
Day 22: May 8 Mazarife to Astroga 30. km 900m above sea level
359.1 km to go
Day 23: May 9 Astroga to Rabanal 21.4 km 1,160m above sea level
337.7 km to go
Day 24: May 10 Rabanal to Molinaseca 26.5 km 610m above sea level
311.2 km to go
Day 25: May 11 Molinaseca to Villafranca 30.7 km 530m above sea level
280.5 km to go
Day 26: May 12 Villafranca to O'cebreiro 30.9 km 1330m above sea level
249.6 km to go
Day 27: May 13 O'cebreiro to Triacastela 20.7 km 675m above sea level
228.9 km to go
Day 28: May 14 Triacastela to Sarria 25.0 km 455m above sea level
203.9 km to go
Day 29: May 15 Sarria to Portomarín 22.9 km 420m above sea level
181 km to go
Day 30: May 16 Portomarín to Palas de Rei 26.1 km 575m above sea level
154.9 km to go
Day 31: May 17 Pala de Rei to Ribadiso/Arzúa 26.4 km 390m above sea level
128.5 km to go
Day 32: May 18 Ribadiso/Arzúa to Arca do Pino 22.2 km 290m above sea level
106.3 km to go
Day 33: May 19 Arca do Pino to Santiago 20.6 km 260m above sea level
85.7 km to go
Day 34: May 20 Santiago to Negreira 22.4 km 180m above sea level
63.3 km to go
Day 35: May 21 Negreira to Olveiroa 33.1 km 280m above sea level
30.2 km to go
Day 36: May 22 Olveiroa to Finisterre 29.2 km at sea level OH YEAH!!!
As you can see from the calculations 1 km is missing. I have double checked the books calculations and am unsure where the extra km is supposed to be. Ah well what can you do either we will be walking an extra km or have one km to play with. After the trek there is an additional 3.5 km to get to the lighthouse that you have to see if you go to Finisterre so... we continue to walk on!
From here we will head to Barcelona and spend 2-3 days there before we fly to Italy.
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